Suzie Q in Seoul
At times this blog is good for a travel tip or two. A couple of weeks ago I was working on a great project in Beijing and Seoul for Audi’s Urban Future Initiative (http://mooove.com/audi-urban-future-initiative) which explores how leading designers, engineers, architects and thinkers envision the future of the city and technology. It was not only a fascinating subject but it also gave me an opportunity to visit Seoul, South Korea. Here’s where the travel tip comes in. I gave myself an extra day so that I could walk through a few neighborhoods and get a feel for that metropolis. This was also my chance to understand the deep societal underpinnings of “Gangnam Style” which for those of you who don’t already know it, is a viral music hit that’s permeated the globe.
The highlight of my exploration was initiated by a serendipitous late night query to two young students at a convenience store in Hongdae. The streets were full of neon signs advertising hundreds of bars but I couldn’t decide on one. One of the girls thought for a second and said,”Suzie Q”! It was close and while it might not have many people on a weekday,could still be fun. Just around the corner in a little alley I found Suzie Q, where Cho Kyu-nam has enshrined his huge (we’re talking by the thousands) record collection. His specialty is Rock and Blues.
The night I was there it was the bartender, a professor of Korean Shamanism and me, drinking Cass beer and Jack Daniels. Our DJ, Mr Kyu-nam searched for our requests (there’s a little cut out in front of the turntables for that) and most of the time found them. DJ Kyo-nam is kind of an original hipster who must have been collecting vinyl for decades. I can imagine that this now 65 yr.old, tall, glass wearing gentleman was once a lead guitar player in a Korean version of the Rolling Stones and has now taken on the mission of educating the art students of Hongik University of Design and Arts which backs up to his establishment. His quiet determination to supplicate the gods of Rock was kind of revelatory. He was a master of his domain.
Post post: To those who wonder why there aren’t more photos I will tell you that the DJ was a bit shy. After a few minutes of shooting the “I’ve had enough time in the spotlight” expression was directed at me and I went back to the “pews” and enjoyed the music.
These days I’m often making somewhat frequent trips to Southern China and spending lots of time in a place that I used to only visit for visa runs, namely Hong Kong. On those past journeys I always knew where the cheapest but certainly not the nicest place to stay was. I think anyone who is doing Hong Kong on a budget knows Chungking Mansions. Thankfully I’m not utilizing the services of those refrigerator-size hostel rooms anymore but on my last trip, my friend and writer Kit Gillet told me he was doing a story about the it. I’m always up for exploring a gritty place like Chungking Mansions a bit more. I volunteered to supply photos for a potential article. I focused mostly on the commercially oriented bottom floor.
A little background: Chungking Mansions is a 50 year old,17 story building complex located in Kowloon, Hong Kong. It houses a multitude of shops, guest houses, restaurants, repair shops, grocery stores, laundries,tailors, ngos, daycare, call centers, barber shops as well as many other types of goods and services that are less officially sanctioned like drugs and prostitution.
What makes Chungking Mansions interesting: Unless one is looking for a cheap stay or to buy a couple of hundred cell phones, the reason to come is to sit down at one of the tasty South Asian stalls and have a chat with the world. In my day and half walking the halls there I met people from all over India, Pakistan, Myanmar, China, Congo, Somalia, Nigeria, Israel, Kenya and of course Hong Kong. Over milk tea and tandoori chicken one can see what Gordon Mathews, author of Ghetto at the Center of the World, calls “low end globalization” in which thousands of traders ferry goods bought at Chungking Mansions back to their home countries where they sell them for a small profit. The intensity of this market is supported by a multitude of other trades and services. Other than the commercial activity its also become a center for Africans who are escaping repression. There is one small food stall where they primarily meet to talk about their appeals for asylum and how to survive in Hong Kong in the meantime.
This selection of photos is hopefully a beginning for what will become an article in the near future.
I had been to Chengdu before for a story about Chengdu’s culinary culture and now I was back with a day to roam. I had finished a project for Fortune which highlighted Chengdu’s role as a modern metropolis and a center for global commerce. Like Guangzhou,another provincial capital,Chengdu has two very different faces. The modern one, that kept my head spinning from side to side in order to note the crazy new designs that popped up on every block and then the traditional one that for me embodies the city’s true nature. These neighborhoods of labyrinthine alleys are home to shady ramshackle tea houses filled with pet song birds, their lovely cages and chatter. Sublime.
If I had been asked what I thought about Guangzhou a few years ago I would’ve given the questioner a quick answer, “its a hot sauna in summer and a cold sauna in the winter.” This metropolis was a central transit point on the way to my first China-based exploratory photo project in 2005.
I was documenting highway development in Guangxi, and Guangzhou was a good way to get there. I didn’t see much of it and really didn’t like the weather. Fortunately, a few years later I ended up working on a project about the African Community in Guangzhou which took place in the fall and I saw much different place that was actually somewhat charming. I’m talking here of the old Canton neighborhoods that are incredibly organic constructions meshing nature and city together. In between blocks or along narrow ancient lanes, large trees, ferns and potted gardens give one a sense of shelter.
Living in Beijing and keeping abreast of all things China, I started to hear about a new area of Guangzhou that was being decked out with stunning architectural showcase buildings. This area officially known as Zhujiang Xincheng is known colloquially as New City (Xincheng). I first heard about Zaha Hadid’s designed Opera House. At that point I knew of her work on paper but most of her designs had never been built. Here was her vision coming to life and I made sure that the next time I was down that way I would go see the project. I finally got there just after its completion. The Opera House is only one project of many that’s transforming a large sector of Guangzhou’s new central business district. There are many notable building projects that are cultural institutions,hotels,malls and corporate headquarters. To top it off (there is a sense of a cherry being placed atop the whole development) the Canton Tower sits opposite the site. This colossal tower, the tallest in China and the fourth highest in the world, is lit in a stream of rainbow colors and is one of the visual focal points of the entire area. At the middle of this district is a brand new park that works hard and sometimes successfully to frame this immense project into a dream of a futuristic China. The park is planted with giant gnarled trees and includes man made wetlands with glowing (literally since they are electric) water lotus. To date this area draws visitors but only some of the buildings are occupied. This orchestrated landscape of buildings and nature is a showcase that stands in stark contrast to the old areas which have layers of nature, history and human habitation melding into one another. Both left me speechless.
This year I’ll be making periodic trips to Guangzhou and hope to produce several more blog entries on this subject.
Late last year I was contacted by Forbes to do a portrait of two Mongolian brothers Tserenjigmed and Ganbaatar Dagvadorj who have quickly become prime players in one of the world’s fasted growing economies. Their empire began with the underground trade of skins and furs and has come to encompass supermarkets, milk bottling, fast-food, road construction, real estate development, hotels (including Ulanbaatar’s newest, the Ramada,whose first guests were the 100-member advance party for Vice President Biden), restaurants, retail shops from clothing to furniture, and the shopping malls to house them and even a couple of gold mines. Their most prized asset however is their 500 head herd of horses. A few of these are western style racing horses, housed in a Kentucky farm that they hope will one day race in the Kentucky Derby.
On the night of my arrival, Soyol, a senior executive at the Max Group, promptly took me to one of The Max group’s restaurants called Budweiser Pub. This homey place, specializing in Czech beer and organic grass fed steak, sits on Sukhbataar Square, Mongolia’s governmental, business and cultural epicenter. As dinner progressed I was able to meet friends of Soyol’s who in themselves embody the heady steam thats keeping Mongolia buzzing.
First we met Jack, a highly placed executive at of one Mongolia’s most important banks. He was one of those guys that you know was living large. He reveled in telling me about his partying nights followed up with morning meetings with international VIPs. He’s was a real schmoozer. If one were to hook up with his posse there is no doubt that you would feel it the next day. Then Oscar, the Mexican investment banker stopped over. Soyol and him were classmates in a prestigious MBA program in Japan. Oscar was an upcoming player in Mongolia’s rapid development. He seemed like a guy you could meet on Wall Street or Hong Kong. Over some more beers he shared his insider’s view of Mongolia’s current political challenges. After shots with Jack and beers with Soyol and Oscar I went to bed totally ready for the everything the next day might bring except of course for sleep itself.
Early the next morning I was ready to take a drive. After several quick stops for supplies (all at Max group companies) we started our 200 km drive, 80km of it off-road. When Mongolians talk about a drive its usually broken down to on-road and off-road and then finally with an estimate of time. As we left UB through the emerging frozen concrete jungle and development I couldn’t help but appreciate the full beauty of several coal fired thermal plants pumping smoke high into the frozen crystalline morning sky. It was actually quite beautiful but then again I live in Beijing which is often just smokey with out the charm or sparkle. We passed the gers, frosty slopes scarred with trails and small settlements. The Mongolian world was waking.
One of our stops along the way was to pick up Ordis who is being supported by the Max Group to become one of their award winning jockeys. He is supposed to learn English and then travel to a Mongolian horse farm in Kentucky. That caught me off guard. Apparently, Ganbataar is hoping to have some of his horses and riders go to the Kentucky Derby. Ordis was also our guide. When we pulled off the main road on to gravel path I was happy that he seemed to know the way. I say, seemed, because its hard to imagine anyone knowing the way out there. There are no roads, just criss-crossing trails and no landmarks. Its just open sky and hills. At times the driver would just make his own path knowing that he was heading in the right direction. For the most part this navigation method is fine, unless you happen to end up in a gulch of which there are many. As we road up the side of one hill and down the other I was stunned to see our herd. There were a few hundred horses heading for water on an open plain. We stopped at a ger and had some milk tea. Inside the ger was an incredible little infant swaddled tightly in a flannel cloth. Mom was busy with her hosting. The ger would be our home base for the day. Shen Jie and Ganbattar showed up a while later and we began. They actually arrived in hunting clothes carrying high powered rifles. They were hunting a wolf that had, the night before taken one of their herd. Like princes, their herdsmen assistants started assembling their wardrobe and riding gear. Honestly, I was a little overwhelmed. I had two guys essentially dressed like Genghis Khan who took there warrior roles pretty seriously. They are true descendants.
So what to do with a couple of warriors and 500 horses? As I maneuvered the herd and my subjects I was to meet the one horse that seemed to be like my long lost cousin. As I was standing on one of my cases to shoot the brothers I was almost toppled off the case by a smallish horse head between my legs. This curious pony had found a friend but I was not sure if was me or my black case. He seemed to stay close to that case wherever we moved it. The other 499 horses backed away for every step we took toward them. I did have a fleeting thought that I could get trampled to death but then I realized how scared they were of us. The herdsmen who handled the pack were amazing. These guys are the true grit of Mongolia. If they were in a Western one could only imagine their nicknames like Grumpy or Pops or The Kid. The shoot went well and we went back to the ger, have some mongolian snacks (pre-cracked goat skulls on the menu) and prepare for another long journey but this time mostly in the dark.
When we finally left the sun was just setting. Shen Jie and Ganbattar re-assembled the wolf hunting party, found their rifles and radios and left for the hills. We started what was a grueling mostly in the dark, 2 hour sprint across the Mongolian steppes. Though we had three working GPS units we still asked three separate passing vehicles on how to go. Imagine the former description and then add total darkness. I definitely imagined the possibility of getting stranded but I was assured that we were heading in the right direction. Bottom line we made it back to the paved road and then to the Budweiser Pub. The next day as I drove to the airport I couldn’t help imagining Ordis, our guide and jockey in training, transposing the harsh Mongolian steppes with the mannered Southern horse farms of Kentucky.
Camera 5d ll
lens 35 1.4 and 50 1.2
Flash 580ex ll and 580 with diffusion
Slaved with Pocket Wizard Flex set
Generally the lighting was set off to the side and the ambient exposure shot slightly underexposed.
A slow work week in August precipitated an exploratory weekend trip to Shanxi and its cave dwellings. I had been to this area once before to photograph the Hukou Dam on the Yellow River and I remembered that two things struck me. One was the “coal culture”, littered blackened hamlets with hulking coal trucks and the other were that much of the housing was in the form of very old cave houses. Cave houses or yao dong are a unique form of traditional housing that dates back centuries. I decided that I had time for the caves and that the coal could wait for a later and colder season. The area is on the edge of the Loess Plateau in Shanxi Province. Long ago the area had been logged beyond its capacity and as a result much of the hilly area eroded into a bare yellow-orange moonscape. In order to salvage the land for agriculture and habitation these hills were terraced to create flat land and fields. Along the Yellow River (yellow from these eroded hills) villages were created in the ravines. Houses were dug like caves directly into the hillsides. Sometimes the facades were faced with stone while poorer dwellings had mud facades with latticed windows and doors. As China modernizes beyond recognition yao dong are being appreciated as a unique cultural treasure. Their ability to mitigate the hot summer heat and frozen winter chill has also been appreciated as an early form of “eco-friendly” design.
My friend Keith, a fellow Beijing-photographer, and I hired a translator and a driver to find some good places to shoot these communities. The methodology for finding these cave houses might seem a bit random but it proved effective. In Beijing Keith and I sat at a cafe and loaded Google Earth. My Google Earth was already littered with digital pushpins marking places where there were thumbnail photos of cave houses. Like a scientist studying a lunar lanscape I zoomed into these areas to make an almost alchemical judgement on whether this was cave house gold and whether the area was accessible. Our driver didn’t trust my foreign made Google-powered intelligence but eventually he was won over and we started the search.
Our first stop was Shijiagou, a very small village that sat near a big bridge and a little stream. This was pretty random, direct from satellite intelligence we plopped down in the middle of Shanxi sleepy-ville. A few elders skeptically greeted us and when I went into the trunk to retrieve my cameras and tripod I felt like I was on the edge of a deep cultural ravine that still needed to be crossed. We could see the houses all along the road but with out a guide we just started to wander up hill hoping to find something to shoot. One older man yelled up to us and then for a short period became our guide to the village. In short order, we went from strangers to pied pipers with kids following us and even guiding us further up the hill to a few more houses. It had been a bit of a rough start but Keith and I were able to do a few decent portraits. The best thing I learned though was that little girls of the village liked to paint their nails with red liquid that they made from flowers growing on the hillsides.
The next day started a bit rough. The driver had a made call to a friend in Taiyuan who recommended an area near the Yellow River and several hours west from Taiyuan. Keith and I went back to our personal satellite tracking system, aka Google Earth, and zoomed into the region. Again looking at small thumbnail photos we found some great shots of cave houses just south of Qikou. We got in the car with a plan but soon it became clear that the driver,who initially gave us the starting point for our search was now talking like everything was either too far or to hard to get too. A couple of very tense hours en route passed before we arrived at a plan. With out too much difficulty we ended up finding ourselves at base camp “cave house mecca”. We were staring up a ravine at a multi-tiered stone village all made of ancient cave houses, its name was Li Jia Shan. We peeked our head into a arched gateway where an older man, Mr. Cui welcomed us in. He and his wife were long term house sitters for the owners of this beautiful cave house complex. He was kind enough to tell us the founding myth of the village.
In the first year of the Qing Dynasty, 1644 AD, a member of the Li family was about to give birth. On the very same day their cow was also give birth. The women delivered a baby but the cow had a strange and mythical creature that the village had never seen. This beast was made up of different animals and is commonly referred to as a Chinese unicorn (Qi Lin). The villagers were so scared of this new creature that they tried to kill it and dump it in the Yellow River. What the gods had sent as a miracle for the Li Family was seen by the villagers as a curse or even a precursor to disaster. Soon after the mother cow, the mother and her child all perished. Though the villagers had tried to smash the Qi Lin with a pick axe but the creature survived the assault. Its remains were nowhere to be found. Later that summer the divine punishment continued. The entire village which used to be near the banks of the Yellow River was washed away in a flood. Now the village sits atop a ravine that overlooks the river.
Its unclear what Li Jia Shan’s trajectory is. The village was made prosperous by its work helping transverse the Yellow River’s upstream rapids. They were employed by vessels to move cargo from ship to shore. These days the only chance it has will come from income as a cultural tourist site. Many families have already moved to near by cities. Some small children are still around but mostly, its the grand mothers and fathers that remain. The date orchards ,currently its main source of income,require outside laborers for the harvest.
(this slideshow contains audio!)
Music in the Parks: When I finally moved to China in late 2006 I had already started the process of getting to know it. Beijing was in the midst of its epic Olympic makeover. That meant bulldozing many parts of the city to create a fresh slate for post Olympic China. The labyrinth of neighborhoods and streets were getting transformed in to office buildings,malls and plazas. When I first encountered the singing and musical groups in Beijing’s parks I felt like I could finally see a bit of soul. Here were dedicated music enthusiasts singing and dancing with all the soul of gospel music I knew from the States. Witnessing the music, dance, games, kites, martial arts…etc in the parks connects me with something more real than the Disney-fied version of what often passes as a chinese cultural experience. If one looks a little deeper and understands the background of this music its also a window into China’s history. Most of the choral music comes from the Cultural Revolution and the rest has a more ancient heritage. On a political level the Cultural Revolution had tragic consequences for many but decades later the same upheaval has transformed itself into the connective emotional tissue of a generation. The Party shut down many schools and started a program to send the youth and Red Guards to the countryside. Looking back it seems that many of these now sixty year olds forget the hardships and fondly remember the comradeship and the music.
A 55 year old musician told me, that during these times “ people developed the habit of cooperation. We miss the positive part of the Cultural Revolution, certainly, as for the economic accomplishment we get today, we’re thankful to our government. However, economic development is not enough, the spiritual life is also very important, China is a huge country, we should unify people’s thought.” Asked if he thought aspects of the Cultural Revolution would be good for a younger generation he said, “young people need something like that. Today’s young people seek the material life blindly, they are not as optimistic as we were before, and they are shouldering much more pressure than us, of course, today’s life is much better than before.” One musician clearly had different musical influences and played a saxophone. When asked about his musical experience, he said the music he played now used to have to be played secretly. That music would’ve been considered decadent and perhaps, got one labelled as a counter revolutionary or worse. Its this mixture of influences that makes the parks of China a window onto its history and soul.